Microneedling: The Science Behind This Skin-Boosting Treatment
- Carolyn Khoo
- Feb 20
- 4 min read
Updated: 2 days ago

Microneedling: My Experience and the Evidence
My skincare routine has always been straightforward: face soap, moisturiser, and not much else. But as I approach 50 and see hormonal changes showing up on my skin, I’ve started looking at treatments that genuinely support skin health rather than cover things up.
Despite having a low pain tolerance, I found microneedling much more comfortable than I expected. My skin felt fresher almost immediately. Because it fits naturally with my hands-on approach to wellness, it made sense to bring it into my clinic.
After reading the research, it became clear that microneedling isn’t just a passing trend. It has clinical backing, especially for acne scarring and hair thinning.
What Is Microneedling?
Microneedling (collagen induction therapy) uses very fine needles to create controlled micro-injuries in the skin. These micro-channels trigger the body’s natural wound-healing response, which stimulates collagen and elastin production—two proteins that help keep the skin firm and resilient.
Clinically, microneedling is most studied for:
Acne scars
Uneven texture
Some pigment concerns
Hair thinning (when combined with topical treatments)
The Science: What Happens in the Skin
Microneedling activates a three-phase repair response:
1. Inflammation (0–48 hours) - Your immune system increases blood flow and sends growth factors to the area.
2. Proliferation (Days 3–7) - Fibroblasts produce new collagen and elastin.
3. Remodelling (Weeks 4–6 and beyond) - The new collagen matures, strengthening the dermal layer and improving texture.
This mechanism underpins all microneedling outcomes, including scar improvement and scalp stimulation.
What Does the Research Actually Show?
Here are the two areas where high-quality, accessible evidence exists with verified links. These are the studies I can stand behind because they come from accredited journals and the URLs work.
1. Microneedling for Acne Scars
A randomised clinical trial published in Dermatologic Surgery compared microneedling with non-ablative fractional laser for treating atrophic acne scars. Both treatments improved scarring, but microneedling had:
Fewer side effects
Shorter downtime
2. Microneedling for Hair Thinning (When Combined with Minoxidil)
A clinical study published in the International Journal of Trichology looked at men using minoxidil alone versus minoxidil plus microneedling. (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23960389/)
The group receiving microneedling saw:
Greater hair count increase
Higher global improvement scores
Better patient satisfaction
This study is widely cited because the difference between the two groups was significant.
What Are the Benefits?
✔ Stimulates Natural Collagen
Supported indirectly by the acne scar study, which showed structural skin improvements.
✔ Improves Acne Scarring
✔ Supports Hair Growth When Combined with Topicals
✔ Short Downtime
Demonstrated in the acne-scar study where microneedling produced fewer side effects than laser.
✔ Suitable for All Skin Types
Microneedling does not use heat, making it a safer option for darker skin compared with some lasers.(This is accepted dermatology guidance, but since no single accredited URL was verified today, the claim remains general rather than cited.)
Risks and Contraindications
Most side effects are mild and short-lived:
Redness for 24–48 hours
Temporary dryness or flaking
Mild bruising in sensitive areas
Small risk of infection without proper aftercare
Microneedling is not suitable if you have:
Active acne, cold sores, or skin infections
A history of keloid scarring
Recent strong retinoid treatment (such as Accutane)
Uncontrolled eczema or psoriasis on the treatment area
Pregnancy or breastfeeding (mostly a caution due to limited data)
How Many Sessions Are Usually Needed?
Results vary depending on age, skin condition, and treatment goals. General recommendations:
Concern | Sessions Needed |
Fine lines & wrinkles | 3-6 sessions |
Acne scars | 4-6 sessions |
Hyperpigmentation | 3-4 sessions |
Stretch marks | 6+ sessions |
Hair loss (scalp) | 6-8 sessions |
Treatments are typically spaced 4-6 weeks apart, with maintenance sessions recommended every 6-12 months.
Did you know? Did you know your skin produces most of its new collagen in response to controlled injury rather than moisturisers or creams?Microneedling takes advantage of this natural repair mechanism. Dermatology research shows that the mechanical stimulus of tiny needles activates pathways that topical products cannot reach. It explains why many people see firmer skin after a short course of treatments rather than a single session.
Microneedling vs Botox, Fillers, and Laser
I’ve had clients ask, “Is microneedling better than Botox?” The answer depends on your goals.
Treatment | What It Does |
Botox | Temporarily relaxes muscles to reduce wrinkles. No effect on skin texture. |
Fillers | Adds volume but doesn’t stimulate collagen. |
Laser | Resurfaces skin but requires longer recovery. |
Microneedling | Stimulates natural collagen, improving texture and scars. |
If you want smoother, firmer skin without injecting anything, microneedling may be a more natural option.
Did you know Did you know microneedling is considered one of the safest professional treatments for darker skin tones?Because it doesn’t use heat, it carries a much lower risk of post-inflammatory pigmentation compared with some lasers. This is why dermatologists often choose microneedling for clients with Fitzpatrick IV to VI when addressing texture, scarring or uneven tone.
Final Thoughts
Microneedling fits well for people who want a treatment that works with the skin’s biology rather than forcing change from the outside. The strongest studies support its use for acne scarring and hair thinning, and my own experience with clients reflects this slow, steady, noticeable improvement over time.
If you’re thinking about microneedling, we can chat through your goals and put together a plan that supports your long-term skin health.
References
Cachafeiro T, Escobar G, Maldonado G, Cestari T. Comparison of nonablative fractional erbium laser 1340 nm and microneedling for the treatment of atrophic acne scars: A randomized clinical trial. Dermatologic Surgery. 2016;42(2):232–241.DOI: 10.1097/DSS.0000000000000597URL: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26845539/
Dhurat R, Sukesh MS, Avhad G, et al. A randomized evaluator-blinded study of microneedling in androgenetic alopecia: A pilot study. International Journal of Trichology. 2013;5(1):6–11.DOI: 10.4103/0974-7753.114700URL: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23960389/






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